Title: Along The Ucayali – Pucallpa to Iquitos
Author: Frederick L. Kramer
Publisher: Xlibris
ISBN: 978-1-6641-4149-0
Pages: 98
Genre: Memoir / Travel
Reviewed by: Carol Davala

Read Book Review

Throughout Along The Ucayali – Pucallpa to Iquitos, author Frederick L. Kramer delivers an inspiring and heartfelt memoir highlighting the first of five journeys he took to explore the remarkable Peruvian Amazon. At the age of twenty-three, the venture clearly left an indelible impression on the young Kramer and taught him valuable life lessons that he continued to reflect on decades later.

Kramer’s sense of wanderlust was sparked early on recalling how his Grandmother offered her homemade pea soup to rail riding vagabonds who were willing to share stories of their travels. Years later, as a young adult, in 1963 Kramer made a bold decision to leave Law School, and  signed on to teach high school English in Vermont for the upcoming fall. Meanwhile he planned a summer venture travelling 1500 miles down the Ucayali River from Pucallpa to Iquitos, the furthest point inland on the Amazon.

Here, aboard a paddle wheel-style riverboat known as the “Hullaga,” Kramer joined with a load of passengers, produce, pigs, and ocelot skin traders, waiting to get under way. Reminiscent of “The African Queen” ride, this unique vessel was piloted by a gold-toothed Humphrey Bogart-like captain. Along his route, Kramer befriended an interesting group of characters. Among them, a man called Wild Bill, who aimed to find rare flowers for his tropical orchid farm in Florida, and another affable adventurer from Australia, intent on searching for gold. In the remote village of Progresso, Kramer also found an attraction to the bar keeper’s beautiful daughter.

Whether learning that jungle time often translates as “manana, manana” (tomorrow), taking a tranquil canoe trip down a memorable waterscape, or sampling chuchuhuasi, the strong local drink made from distilled tree bark steeped in sugar cane alcohol, Kramer shares his spirited wanderings in lasting detail. Throughout his writing, Kramer often takes moments to ponder whether his free-spirited choices were the right ones. Thoughts like “Was I running away from myself?” are readily mixed with discovering his true inner explorative nature which had been doused by school, societal demands, culture, and family heritage. Ultimately his reflections confirm that life is always full of unknowns and pointedly goes on to highlight many of the unpredictable events in his own future.

Kramer openly relates important lessons he learned along his journey, including making cautious decisions about people, developing patience, and recognizing the difference between fantasy and reality when considering a charmed life in the Amazon. The latter portion of Kramer’s narrative focuses on his return to the US, his childhood memories, and his new adventure in teaching. Incorporating his summer experience into the classroom proved a valuable influence on his students and an important tool in their efforts at self-expression.

The book’s chapters are interspersed with a small collection of photographs. Some courtesy of Wikipedia.com merely provide a colorful visual reference. Kramer’s own contributions include a lovely pink sunrise/sunset and an aerial view of the snaking, muddy brown river that resembles a giant Anaconda.

At less than one hundred pages, Along The Ucayali – Pucallpa to Iquitos is a quick read. Still, Kramer’s compact story is a personal travelogue layered with insightful recollections which should tempt both armchair travelers and intrepid adventurers alike.